Houston… tranquility bay here
So yesterday I completed my second career volcanic ascent climbing Volcán Cerro Negro outside of Leon. Cerro Negro is one of the youngest Volcanoes in the world and also one of its most active, having risen to a height of 800 meters since it first split out of a field in 1850. Imagine going to check on your crops, ¨yep. There´s a giant rip in my field and fire is shooting into the sky. Damn¨
The group I went with is the same one I summitted Volcán Telica with in 2004. It is called Quetzaltrekkers, and they are a non-profit group that runs various hikes and expeditions with the proceeds going to programs assisting the street kids of León. We met up at 4am to have a quick breakfast before heading out to catch the bus that leads out of León into the fields. The sun rose up behind the Maribos line of volcanoes as we bounced around on a rutty dirt road passing cattle ranches.
Our overall hike I imagine covered perhaps 10 miles. I loved it for this, there was an actual sense of accomplishment. We walked a good 3 miles or more just approaching the base of the volcano. It is possible to take a four wheeler all the way up to the base, and many local tour companies do just that. I think that is bullshit- it eliminates any physical challenge as well as the true thrill of accomplishment. I was happy that we were dropped off on the edge of a dirt road and had plenty of work cut out for us… plus the campos in the early morning were delightfully cool and breezy.
We finally made our way to Cerro Negro itself and walked halfway around the cone, to the backside where the trail is that leads to the summit. After scampering over some lava flows containing bigger rocks we made it to the smoother, almost sandy slope. The final ascent was actually quite easy, made easier by the howling wind that kept me largely sweat-free and cool. The crater, like that of any volcano, is stunning and epic. Cerro Negro has blown itself apart several times and will no doubt continue to do so. Should I return to Nicaragua someday and summit her again, the crater will barely resemble what I saw yesterday.
We followed the ridgeline of the outer crater in a broad circle winding around to the right, now fighting the wind gusts which made me happy for once to weigh what I weigh. The summit view was marvelous, being able to see León in the distance, as well as Volcánes Telica y San Cristobal. From that point you can also look into the primary crater, lined with streaks of smoldering sulphur and iron deposits. Awesome.
Then our guide, a well traveled Canadian a few years my senior, turned and said that we were going down that way. I was blown away. He pointed right over the edge of the volcano, the main slope. I could see out about 40 feet before it just dropped off alltogether. I was definitely daunted, kinda amazed that it was possible, but he went over the top first and then I followed. The slope is indeed quite steep, but after a bit one learns the hang of making these giant leaps down the face. It was as if I was bounding across the surface of the moon, chunk, chunk, chunk, creating a rock avalanche that chased me all the way down the half mile to the bottom. I took a video of this experience which I will try to post on here. Wow… descending with my own two feet like that… spectacular.
We ate lunch at the base underneath a sprawling tree coming up out of a lava flow. By now it was almost 1030 and the black pebbles were really starting to reflect a lot of heat. We headed out into the forests and followed the sweltering path back towards a little store that the bus stops at. The forest smelled like a sauna- the smell of dried out wood slowly roasting in the heat. While we walked I talked with the guide about the Quetzaltrekkers volunteer experience. The possibility exists for me to return and volunteer for a time as a guide… and I will not lie… I am strongly considering that possibility. The cost of living in León is not so bad, and rooms in the Quetzaltrekkers house cost US$2 per day in rent. I wouldn`t mind spending a few more months here as a guide leading internationals to various beautiful volcanic peaks. Our group consisted of 3 Dutch, 2 Germans, 1 Canadian, 1 American, and 1 Italian. I`m very, very tempted to volunteer in May, although I would have to extend my visa in Managua at a cost of US$20 per month. Might have to tighten my daily budget or win the lottery.
So that`s the short of summiting Cerro Negro… today I might head out to the Pacific beach nearby for some refreshing swimming. Tomorrow I must rest and do laundry in anticipation of my overnight ascent of Volcán Momotombo, a true colossus, and the destroyer of the old city of Léon… another definitely active cone! Yes, I`ve been bitten by the bug!
4 years ago